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Izakaya basics: how a Japanese pub dinner works

The table charge, how ordering works, what to order for a group, and how to pay at the end.

Illustration for Izakaya

An izakaya is a Japanese pub that serves lots of small dishes to share alongside drinks. It is where many locals eat dinner, and one of the most fun meals of a trip.

AI-generated image: Jon Ng at a wooden izakaya counter with yakitori skewers, edamame and a beer
AI-generated image of Jon at an izakaya counter. Not a photograph.

How it works

  1. Staff shout a greeting as you enter. You do not need to answer.
  2. Show how many people with your fingers. You are seated, often with a tablet or QR code for ordering.
  3. A small appetiser arrives without you ordering it. This is the otoshi, a table charge, usually ¥300–600 per person.
  4. Order a first round of drinks right away, then food in small rounds through the evening.
  5. When finished, ask for the bill and pay at the till by the door.

What to order

DishWhat it is
EdamameSalted soybeans in the pod
KaraageJapanese fried chicken
YakitoriGrilled chicken skewers, with salt or sweet sauce
Sashimi platterRaw fish of the day
Potato saladCreamy, chunky and surprisingly good
TamagoyakiRolled omelette
Rice ball or noodlesOrdered at the end to finish the meal

Drinks

  • Draft beer is the classic first drink.
  • Highball: whisky and soda.
  • Sour: shochu with lemon or other fruit.
  • Sake: served cold or warm.
  • Nomihodai: all-you-can-drink for a fixed time, often 90 or 120 minutes, popular with groups.

Smoking

Most restaurants in Tokyo are non-smoking indoors, but some small bars and izakaya still allow it. Look for a sign at the door.

Paying

Many izakaya split the bill by table, not by person. Work out who owes what among yourselves. Larger chains take cards; smaller places may be cash only.

Useful phraseTo get staff attention, raise a hand and say "sumimasen" (excuse me). It is normal and not rude.

Watch: Japan’s nightlife streets after dark

Japan night walk: Shinjuku, Kyoto Pontocho, Osaka Namba and snowy Otaru · Video by Jon Ng on Trip Lovers · 96-minute walking video. Includes Shinjuku Kabukicho, Kyoto’s Pontocho and Osaka’s Namba, all packed with izakaya. Watch on YouTube